Thursday, September 22, 2011

Thursday, September 22, 2011



Going home tomorrow....all packed...all cleaned up...shopped out and full of gelato, pasta, caffe, pizza, wine (well maybe not the wine) and all things in Italian. But we still had a moment to have a small picnic lunch at this park on the Arno....such fun! See ya'll soon!






Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Food, glorious food....it's really all about the food....and it is so fresh. We were laughing..or talking really about how far the food we ate today traveled. When you buy food in the USA, it travels a lot of miles...and sometimes you don't even know where it did come from. The food we ate today could be identified by the local shop where it was made...or at least purchased from a vendor who knew the farmer. So here goes: For lunch we had sandwiches made with local buns from our local Forno (bread shop), salamie from the charcuterie down the alley, cheese from up the hill at Ste. Brigda and local wine. For supper we had pasta made by the nice ladies of Pasta Fresche at the Mercato Centrale, with a sauce of local tomatoes and pancetta. White wine from up the road at Ste Brigda (where are Red comes from too). For dessert we had very dark chocoate from Arte del Cioccolato (on via Porto Rosso)...made there! So if you like your food fresh and local (remember the snail story from earlier in this blog), come to Florence...








Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Tuesday, September 20, 2011





We went to the Boboli Gardens today. Most people visit the Pitti Palace and run out to see the big statue in the middle of the beginning of the Garden and then go home...not us...we skipped the Palace (except the WC) and spent almost 4 hours in the Garden. We decided that it was perhaps the best garden we had ever visited....much better than Versailles (Paris, not KY). Here are a few pictures of the Gardens and us behaving badly like Americans. We also had a pretty good picnic in a covered path...lots of stone benches in the park...it was awesome!









Monday, September 19, 2011

Monday, September 19, 2011


Today was a day of contrasts. It rained last night and it was very windy when we went for our morning walk. However, later in the morning we went to the market and just as we came out of

store it began to hail...hail of all things . So we ran under an umbrella and stayed until the hail stopped...then continued our shopping. On our afternoon walk, we were crossing the Ponte Vecchio and even stranger than hail....a Monday bride and groom. It's some kind of tradition in Florence for brides and grooms to walk over the Ponte Vecchio (getting their beautiful white dresses really nasty on the bottom)....and as you can see...big sun shining. What a funny weather day!

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Sunday, September 18, 2011




So....this morning while we were getting ready for church we hear drums...and horns....and lots of other music stuff. Not wanting to be left behind when the parade gets going, we high-tailed it out of the apartment and down the elevator to the "front porch". In a so not American way, it appears there is a "community orchestra" competition going on this morning...maybe not a competition, but about 25 community orchestra/bands were here....and baton twirlers and flag corps and cheerleaders....it was fun to see young, old, female and male members of the band...looked like it could have been three generations in a few of them. Here's what they looked like.






It also rained this afternoon..see what our "front porch" looks like in the rain.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Saturday, September 17, 2011





It's wedding day in Florence. We went for our walk this morning at 9:30 and they were already lining up....At noon, we had already seen three brides. We also had an evening of serendipity. One of the reasons we love Florence so much is that there are always surprises....around every corner and quite free and fun. Around 6:00 this evening what appeared to be the youth orchestra of the commune of Firenze gave a free concert in our front yard (Piazza delle Signoria). Later this evening, after a quick supper, we went for our usual evening stroll and gelato...and again happened on one of those "pop-up" events. During the day, the market Porcellano is full of vendors selling scarves, belts and leather purses....this evening it was full of Opera....and oh my, what a beautiful sound it was. The picture does not do the scene justice, but this is what it looked like. We can't think of another city anywhere that has so much to see for so little money!








Friday, September 16, 2011

Friday, September 16, 2011





Panzano....a small town in the Chianti region of Tuscany and just a short bus ride away. Today was the beginning of the Vino al Vino Festival in Panzano and we were there to "kick 'er off". This is actually our second Vino al Vino and we enjoyed the day more than ever. There is a great trattoria called Oltre il Giardino and their terrace looks out over the Val d'oro (golden valley). So here are some pictures of our day...oh yeah, and we met the famous Tuscan butcher Dario Cecchini. He's known for his beef meals! No vegetarians in this town...and beautiful beef it is that he sells....and wine and salamie and olive oil.....so, enjoy the pics while we enjoy some more wine.

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Thursday, September 15, 2011


Random views around the Piazza:


Last year we had the surprise wire walker over our heads....today a group of men started building this tower with two huge projectors on top. By the time we finished supper and went back out, the whole thing was encased on three sides and the top....we can't wait to see what happens with that!!!


The Caddie all dressed for a wedding...well, we really don't know. Some old guy came across the Piazza...opened the door, started it and drove away...just like that. Really?


And then there's the tower...This is what we see from our terrace. It's the tower at the Palazzo Vecchio and has this beautiful gold lion we call Leo on top....Leo moves around during the day....we think he's pointing to the sun.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Wednesday, September 14, 2011



Happy birthday Alla...60 today. Today we had Gelato...Florence has gelato shops about every three shops on almost every street in the city. Some look really good, some...not so much. We have a favorite place to get gelato called Perche No! (Why not? to you Americans). We try to only eat gelato from places that have the snail sign you see above. It means they are part of the "slowfood" movement that was begun in Italy. The slowfood people are dedicated to only using ingrediants from local producers and making their product in the traditional way...not with large factory machines. In fact, Perche No! has their "factory" in the back room of their store and you can see it through a little window. We have tried other gelato...one from a Rick Steves recommendation, ick! So now we look for that little snail guy when we eat out. I hope the Slowfood movement starts making an impact in the US....fresh is sooooo goooooood!

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Tuesday, September 13, 2011




It's all about pigeons day!





As much as we love Florence, there really is a pigeon poop problem...we realized the distinct smell we recognized as Florence after getting off the train from Rome was pigeon poop. Here are some of our favorites (but the dead one is the best...sorry PETA). Here we are city folks who live with the mighty flying rats on a daily basis and have only thought of them as minor irritation. Florence has more than a minor issue with their pigeons....fortunately, unlike in the USA, people don't feed the little flying rats. So, here they are...single, in a flock, at rest on some very beautiful statues and deceased (the only good kind). So any of you who wondered what that very strange odor of Florence was.....pigeon poop! We still love this place but don't feed the little demons!



Monday, September 12, 2011

Monday, September 12, 2011

Monday in Florence is kinda of a quiet day. Most of the museums are closed and there aren't very many people in town from the cruise ships. I'm not sure what difference open or closed is in Florece as the entire city is a museum. Before supper this evening we went for a walk to the store for a grater and on the way home passed a church giving an organ recital...you could hear quite well on the street and it was beautful....

After supper we went for our usual evening stroll (and a cigar). At the Piazza Signoria where we live was a young woman singing Ave Maria....at the Piazza Repubblica there was a jazz trio playing and then there are the statues everywhere and the pictures painted on the sides of buildings....why pay 10 Euros to go inside when there is so much beauty on the outside....We love this city....and there was another full moon tonight just to make it even better.





















Sunday, September 11, 2011

Sunday, September 11, 2011

It's the 10th anniversary of the terrorist attacks on the USA.
We took a nice slow, contemplative walk to church at St. James this morning. It was a beautiful morning in Florence and was very quiet along the river. The Rev. Claire gave a wonderful sermon and service....we were glad we were there (they also have a capuccino machine in the basement for coffee hour....OH my!

Much later in the afternoon, we walked uphill about 1 million steps to Piazza Michaelangelo to watch the sunset and have a picnic (with about 150 of our newest best friends).

It's a beautiful view of Florence...you can almost reach out and touch the Duomo! The sunset cannot be captured by a point-and-shoot camera but you have to know....it's beautiful and worth every one of those 1 million steps. As you can see from the top of the stairs....it's quite beautiful...nice slow walk down and a cigar for Larry at the bottom (had to sit and catch our breath, you know) ...gelato and now to bed.








Saturday, September 10, 2011

Saturday, September 10, 2011 or 9/10/11

Today was all about the wine (getting to it, drinking it, talking about it and taking it home). We caught the bus to Greve-in-Chianti at 11:00 with 150 of our new best friends. The bus only holds about 80, but this is Italy and if you pay for a ticket and can find room for your two feet, you're on the bus....packed like sardines in a can barrelling around Chianti roads at top speed! We needed wine when we got there. And it was fun. About 40 Chianti wineries had booths as well as cheese, olive oil and jams and jellies.....oh my, and it was 85 in the shade.


Lunch was at a little cafe on the Piazza where the festival was held, so we could eat and decide what to taste next....and had their house wine....more wine!

At five....we and another 150 of our newest friends got back on the bus for the 55 minute ride back to Florence.....after 6 hours in the sun at 85 degrees, this time it was more like anchovies packed in the bus barrelling up the Chiantigiana at top speed.....all of us wondering if they provide "courtesy bags". Made it home in one piece and ran for the shower! So....not having enough wine in Greve...we headed for our favorite pizza place Gusto Leo...and more wine! I'm going to bed now....no wine tomorrow, please....may have to forgo communion!





Friday, September 9, 2011

Friday, Septemember 9, 2011











Oh my what a long day the last two days have been. We left Cincinnati wondering if we would ever get here and now we're here. First of all, our flight to Philadelphia was cancelled....the nice desk lady at US Air worked really hard to get us on a flight to Rome landing this morning...somehow she thought we had a daughter getting married this afternoon in Rome...not sure where she got that idea but hey...here we are are in our jammies in Florence. The flight was very bumpy but we both got a little sleep and then there was a train from the airport to the Roma Termini train station and then a train to the Florence train station and then a long walk with our bags to the apartment. All in all, after the scare at CVG, we've batted 1000 on plans working. The pictures are just random of our two days (with the 6 hour time change) getting here. We've eaten gelato, had cappucini and finished a fine bottle of five euro vino. Bed time. Hope you enjoy our first pictures. Lunch in Florence at Ifratelli...sandwich and wine 4.60 euros.



. Ok...the post office picture. Wanted to mail a 60th birthday card to a friend. Usual suspect sellers of stamps don't carry "aeropostal" to the US....gotta go to the PO, take a number and wait, and wait and wait...we got there at P353. 45 minutes later, I paid my 1.40 euros and off it went. So my fine American friends who get "postal" at the post office.....Italy is no better!

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Getting Ready

We leave tomorrow! All our stuff is spread all over the bed and Lucy has that "oh no, they're leaving me again" look on her face...not to mention leaving cat hairs on everything. I'm guessing cat hair won't stop me at the TSA gate. It's so cold here it's hard to think about packing for 85 degree days and 63 degree nights. We have lots of plans, most of which include walking early along the Arno and sitting on Piazza Signoria and watching crazed tourists (we're not them, of course). Sunday is the 10th anniversary of the 9/11 attack and we're going to St. James American Episcopal Church for a memorial service. We'll try to keep this up with a bunch of daily picture postings, but since it's a "slow travel" vacation, there may not be much.